Get a Sniper
I would just like to give a different perspective to your carby answer to Damien in issue 507.
I have installed a Holley Sniper in place of a worn-out Quadrajet on a 305 in my 1982 Chev Caprice Classic.
I am using an Edelbrock fuel-sump system after the factory low-pressure pump to supply the 60psi required for the Sniper.
The Sniper can run without a return line with this pump, but I run the breather for the pump back to the tank breather line and then have a vented tank cap. No tank modifications required.
I have been running this set-up for over five years now without a problem.
There is a four-wire hook-up for the Sniper, 10 minutes of set-up, then drive. The EFI is self-learning, set and forget or you can tune for specific parameters if you wish.
The car is now more drivable, easier starting even after sitting for a few weeks, and even though it has not been on a dyno it feels more powerful than before.
I don’t ever want to go back to a carby again. Just my view anyway.
Phil N
Mick says:
I agree with much of what you’re saying. Once the Sniper is set-up right, they’re really, really good. We had some issues with crook injectors in early versions but Holley addressed those and they’re now a good thing. Some of our customers still prefer carburettors.
The only issues I’ve seen with home-fitted units is the fitting of the oxygen sensor is often dodgy, and they fit it to the wrong manifold. They might, for instance, use an old Holden manifold with a spread-bore fitting and try to use a square-bore adaptor, and they’re never quite right. If you buy the square-bore manifold, it works perfectly.
Tyre advice
Mick’s advice on old tyres is spot on. They do indeed get hard, slippery and even noisier.
However, he neglected to mention one point. The biggest danger/risk is delamination. A noise or vibration is detected at the same frequency as wheel rotation.
Careful inspection of the tyres both inside and out and all areas of the tread will show a large bulge or bubble. I have known people who make a casual inspection and keep driving because there is nothing obvious to see – the next step is large chunks of rubber being thrown off or a blow out.
Even older spare tyres that have been kept in pristine condition in the spare-wheel well, protected from sunlight will do this.
At city speeds this is generally not a great risk but at highway speeds a delaminating tyre can be a scary and dangerous experience
Stewart Eldridge
Mick says:
Strangely enough it’s not age on its own that leads to delamination – there are always other prime factors such as manufacturing defects, damage, excessive heat, overloading and so on.
Over time, they do get hard, noisy and weird, and lose grip. Cracks in the sidewall certainly come with age, which makes them porous.
That and any deformation (including delamination) is a big red flag. People are often shocked at how much nicer and quieter the car is once they fit fresh rubber.
Brake dramas
We are currently rebuilding a HK Holden wagon which, I’m told, sat in a paddock for 20-plus years.
We are having problems with setting up the brakes.
The car came originally with four-wheel drums which we have added a booster to during the build.
We have replaced all the hard-lines, flexible lines, wheel cylinders and shoes. We have refurbished everything else. The booster and master cylinder have both been restored together by an old-school brake shop.
The issue we are having is when we bleed the system, fluid only comes out of the front reservoir of the master cylinder.
Bleed the back and the fluid level drops in the front reservoir only. Bleed the front and the same thing happens.
We have taken the master cylinder and booster back for testing and it all shows it’s working well. The actuating rod from the booster to the master is the correct length.
We have checked the plumbing on the distribution block, which is correct.
The distribution block is just a simple brass block with no proportioning valves.
Once the system is bled we seem to have very little pedal, it has to be pushed in a long way to get brake activation.
Could the activation rod from the pedal to the booster be the culprit? Can you help with any ideas, please?
Adrian
Mick says:
The problem will be internal in the master cylinder, somewhere in the piston – the rubbers (or cups) will be on backwards. Take it apart and put it back together again and you should be fine.
Fiat flyer
I have a 1977 Fiat Spider with a beautiful smoke-grey metallic paint job of about eight years. I have never polished it since it got new paint – just a wash.
In the old days (I’m now 76) we used to slap some Simoniz Royal on and it looked fine.
I was looking to get a non-abrasive product to give me that shine, but the new products are many. I probably have a couple of years left where I would be capable of the effort and have been a reader for 30 years. Would love your thoughts.
Thank you.
Baz Preston
Mick says:
WELL THIS should kick off some discussion! Keeping the car dust-free, just a simple wash with water is often a good way to go. I would not use the Simoniz product as it’s intended to be an acidic industrial cleaner.
One decision is whether you want something that provides a mild cut, or simply a protective coat. I like the 3M products if you’re looking for a subtle cut.
Do it by hand rather than with a buff, unless you’re a practiced pro. If it’s a top coat, there are lots of options out there and I reckon you could spend an hour or two at your local auto store, checking out the options.
If you want something for a quick and easy touch-up, some Mr Sheen household spray wax and a microfibre cloth will do the job.
Royal oil
We’ve recently picked up a 1959 Chrysler Royal in pretty good shape. It’s running the original 313 V8 and at some stage has had the original two-speed auto swapped out for a three-speed Torqueflite.
It’s generally in good shape and looks to be easy enough to do at least basic maintenance on. What do you suggest for oils?
Bob Aberley
Mick says:
NICE CAR! The transmission is just Dexron 3, brake fluid is a normal Dot 3. As for engine and diff oils, go for a mineral base. You’re pretty safe picking out a Penrite HPR 30 or 40 that suits your local conditions. Or try their online selector, which I see recommends the Classic Light – a 20W60. They’re a lovely old thing and the 313 was a great motor – enjoy!
Beetle buyer
Mick, I’m out there looking for a VW Beetle at the moment and got a bit of a shock when I saw the prices on older models. It seems like anything from the ‘50s or ‘60s is about double the price of a car from the ‘70s.
I’m perfectly happy with the later versions and like the idea of getting the bigger 1600 engine rather than the earlier 1200s. I also like the idea of doing some of my own work on it.
What are your thoughts on them and what should I be looking out for?
Jane Williams
Mick says:
BUY BOTH of them! Dak daks are just so cool and I would have one tomorrow if the right thing turned up. I do like the later ones purely because I like the disc-brake front end and they’re just that little bit better than the older ones. They are wide open to modification and there is an incredible amount of support out there for them. They’re not hard to work on – you cannot get in to trouble. Funnily enough the hardest thing on them to fix is the gear-shifter tube.
What you should be looking for is something that makes you happy. Everything can be fixed. For example let’s just say you find one with a serious belt in one of the guards. It just unbolts, so it’s easy to either repair or replace. Most of the car is like that. Do some basic running and rust checks and you should be fine.
Got a problem or want some advice on a build or a potential car purchase? Drop Mick a line at uniquecars@primecreative.com.au