Hot Ford
I’m looking for advice for choosing a radiator for an XB Ford with a 302 V8 and auto.
The car runs just fine, and still seems to have an original radiator. However, it’s showing signs of a couple of leaks developing and probably need to get on to it before summer hits.
Should I try to get another original, or go aftermarket? I’m not too concerned about keeping the car absolutely stock. Also, is there anything I should avoid?
Con Alexiou
Mick says:
There are options everywhere for that particular car. They’ve been around a long time and still very much sought-after today. The original radiator that’s in it is a quality brass item that’s very good and will cost you two to three times to replace that quality with a good aluminium radiator.
I personally would go for brass, the longevity of which is good and you’ll probably never need to buy another. If you choose to go the aluminium route, don’t be fooled in to buying a cheap one off the internet. The quality and fit generally isn’t worth it. Instead, go to a reputable local business such as Aussie Desert Coolers, who do excellent work. In either case, go to a proper radiator shop, where it’s hand-made here. Shout it some new hoses while you’re on the job.
You need to get on the phone to and/or eyeball the radiator supplier. We recently had an experience where we tried to buy something we found on the internet, allegedly through Bunnings. Except it wasn’t Bunnings but a very convincing replica website.
Rattling Renault
I have a Renault 16 which I love driving and seems to hang together pretty well. However, I’ve recently been getting some mild rattling noises from the front end, which I suspect might be the CV joints on the way out.
Is there a way to diagnose this? And do you have any idea on cost?
Thanks!
Dave Renshaw
Mick says:
The best way to figure out if it is in the driveline is to go to a nice quiet street and do a tight single arc turn – do it to the left and to the right. If it becomes more pronounced, it’s coming from the CV joints. If it doesn’t, the problem is elsewhere.
It has to be under load. The cost will depend on what’s wrong. The shafts will be a couple of hundred each and may chew up some labour, depending on how hard they are to get out of the splines. The CV joints will be a few hundred. A Renault specialist would be more up to speed with this job, but any good workshop should be able to manage it as it’s not rocket science.
Rolling Holden
Mick, we have an old Holden EH wagon that’s pretty standard. We’re starting to hear some noise as we’re rolling along and I’m wondering if the wheel bearings are due for replacement or repacking. The family has had the car a very long time and I don’t recall this ever being done!
Your thoughts?
Janette Anderson
Mick says:
It depends on where the noise is, so that’s the first thing you need to determine. A noise is a mechanic’s nightmare, as we can chase them for days and still not track it down. Is it a rotating noise, a turning noise, or something that’s happening when stationary? With front wheel bearings you need to get them off and give them a good clean-out, getting rid of all the old grease. You change the races, without damaging anything, then pack in the bearings and do the preload correctly. As for the rear, unless you have a bearing press, you won’t be changing them at home.
Smokey Zed
Hi there. I have an old Datsun 240Z which I inherited years ago from a family member and which has been dead reliable.
These days it has lots and lots of miles on it and I can see the exhaust is getting smokey. I’m guessing the six is due for a freshen-up.
So are we talking pistons, rings, head gasket, head – that sort of thing?
Jim Best
Mick says:
If it has a lot of kilometres under its wheels, it’s trying to tell you to give it a birthday. I’d be taking off the head, plus the sump and pulling out the rods. Give the barrels a hone, measure your pistons and check for ovality. They’re a single overhead cam six-cylinder, a beautiful engine. You can look at it and see some Mercedes influence in there. It’s a good engine to work on and a straightforward job for a competent workshop or home mechanic with good equipment. If you tackle it yourself, you’ll more than likely end up farming out some specialist work such as machining and a head rebuild.
Cult Volvo
Hi Mick. I’ve decided I’ve got to have an arguably collectible Volvo, namely a 1990s 850 R wagon, preferably with the 2.3lt five-cylinder turbo and five-speed manual.
There’s a bit of a selection around, including some grey imports out of Japan.
Is there anything I should be looking out for as I go shopping?
Thanks – love the column.
Anthony Carpenter
Mick says:
Those things are a bit of a cult vehicle. You might remember Volvo raced a touring car version both here and in the UK, getting a huge amount of publicity. And it was a rocketship! The only danger sign they had which was expensive to fix was in the EGR system. It’s an easy thing to identify before you buy it: Start the car and take off the oil filler cap. The engine idle will change and you’ll hear it whistling through the rocker cover. It’s under the manifold and a pain to fix. Other than that, check the paperwork is together, particularly if it’s a grey import. Ideally it should already have been registered in Australia. Otherwise you’ll need a copy of the import approval plus an engineering/ADR compliance check in many states.
Benz air
Mick, our 1988 Mercedes-Benz 300SE looks like the air-conditioner might be going on the blink and it’s probably overdue for a service. I have a couple of questions.
First, I’ve been told it’s best to use the air-con regularly, even running it occasionally in winter. Is this right?
Also, I’m looking around and there are people who can replace the old compressor, but I can’t seem to find anyone who rebuilds them. This seems really wasteful. Surely there is someone out there who can do it?
And I’m right in thinking
that you need to take it to a specialist for regassing?
Damien Cooper
Mick says:
Taking it to a specialist for re-gassing is non-negotiable these days, as there are regulations around capturing any remaining gas and handling the new material, plus what type of gas can be used. And yes you’re right in thinking it needs to be run regularly, to keep seals and components exercised.
As with a lot of specialist trades, people who rebuild air-conditioning compressors have fallen by the wayside. Like the people who used to rewind electric motors for you, they’re all gone. It’s cheaper now to buy a new one.
Want some advice on a build or a potential car purchase? Drop Mick a line at uniquecars@primecreative.com.au