There has been progress with Guido’s long-running Project VK.
For those who came in late, it’s a Berlina wagon that spat out its original six-cylinder engine some years ago. We’ve since fitted a 355 stroker V8 based on a 304 block, with a four-speed auto.
There have been a few challenges along the way, including making sure everything fits and remains serviceable.
The latest is it’s been with an auto electrician for a few weeks. He has essentially checked and/or replaced the entire wiring loom, including fitting several upgrades. Some high-load circuits, such as the starter have been separated out, running relays and much-upgraded fuse systems.
Aside from making sure the car is reliable, we’re keen to see that the work we’re doing now lasts several more decades. Watch this space …
Meanwhile, one of our customers has come in with a long-term restoration project, a 1966 fastback Mustang, that is beautifully done but running poorly. He has shared some shocking stories about being ripped off along the way, which unfortunately does happen. All I can suggest is that asking around and looking for people’s reputation on the internet (which seems to have far more bad stuff than good!) is a wise precaution before handing over your car.
It is a risk, but don’t let it stop you from tackling a project if you have the time, energy and a healthy wallet. The rewards can be amazing.
In the case of the Mustang, we’ll be changing over the existing carburettion to Holley – easy to set up and maintain, while having a look at why the rear end is sagging.
It’s funny how there seems to be a lot of people out there who can do the build, but not the all-important final set-up that ensures the thing is useable.
Choking XR8
Would it be possible to mention contaminated fuel in an article? I recently had an issue with my AUII XR8 ute with 129,000km on the odometer. According to my repairer it was caused by contaminated 98RON fuel, with black floaty bits clogging the fuel pump.
The car would not start and needed a tow to my repairer. The problem was solved $1000 later.
However, I only replaced the fuel pump in May 2023 at 127,000km, at a similar expense.
As you are well aware, getting to the fuel pump/tank is no easy task!
Mick Mladenovic
Mick says…
BLACK FLOATY bits would not have come from the service station. Contamination from petrol outlets – and it does happen – will be liquid-based. The filtration systems they have will pick up anything solid. I would start looking at the car’s own systems: The rubber hoses, even the plastic lines can break down. They are a much more likely culprit.
The other thing to look at is the fuel you’re using. Lots of high-performance users run 91, while you might go for 95 if a high octane is specified for that vehicle. The issue with 98 is the chemicals to get the octane up are quite aggressive and attack some materials, and it does not last long as a fuel.
For the majority of vehicles, moving to 91 won’t affect it. An exception is for some older engines that start to ping on a hot day, then you move up to 95.
Tyred out
Hi Mick. I was recently at a classic car club get-together, featuring mostly cars from the fifties through to the seventies.
Looking around the fleet, I was surprised to see most people were running tyres that were seven years and older. Some folk complained that specialised tyres, such as whitewalls and the like, have skyrocketed in cost over recent years.
Should you always replace the tubes when it’s time to change over? I have also heard people suggest fitting new tubes to old tyres to extend their life.
Anton Loukas
Mick says…
BUYING NEW rubber is just what you have to do. You’ve got to take it on the chin, as it comes with the joy and pain of owning one of these vehicles.
I would rather pay the expense than have the embarrassment of sitting on the side of the road with a puncture, or worse still off the road and up a tree because you’re now hard and unresponsive tyres simply couldn’t grip the road.
They do deteriorate over time, no matter how well cared-for and, because the degradation is gradual, it tends to sneak up on you.
It’s often not until you drive it with fresh rubber that you realise how bad the old ones were.
You should certainly be throwing them out by 10 years and replace the tubes!
As for fitting new tubes to old tyres: Fitting a tube always carries the risk of pinching it – very easy to do, even with a machine, particularly if the tyre has lost its original flexibility. To add a potentially pinched tube (damage that’s not easily seen) to an already old and by definition substandard tyre is risking a blowout.
The workshop cost for a tube change for four wheels would be a chunk of money and it would put you well on the way for paying for new rubber.
A new tube in an old tyre is something you do for a repair, not as a solution for degrading casing.
If anyone is out there driving on decades-old tyres, you start to wonder if they have the first Vegemite sandwich their mother ever made them…
Milky Way Galant
We have a first-generation Mitsubishi Galant that we’ve had a lot of fun with over the years and it’s been dead reliable.
However, when I last checked the oil, it had a worrying milky look to it. Does that mean the head gasket is on the way out? Thanks.
Jenny Tusker
Mick says…
THERE IS more than an 80 per cent chance it will be the head gasket, though there are other possible culprits, such as the seal behind the water pump – there may be corrosion. A simple way to test for water in the oil is to start the motor and check for bubbles in the radiator. If you wanted to get technical and do it the other way, you can take out spark plugs and reverse pressure it.
Being the car that it is, with an early aluminium head, more than likely it will be corrosion around the water jacket. If it’s not too deep you’ll be able to machine it. If it’s really bad and you can’t readily find a replacement, you may need to weld it up and then machine it.
EB XR8 Love
Hi Mick. I’m a bit in love with my tidy EB Falcon XR8 but sometimes wish it had a bit more of a note to it.
What I miss is that bark you get from dual systems and am wondering if doing this to an EB is realistic? Are there any downsides?
Andrew King
Mick says…
I’M TOLD this issue’s resto story on an XR Fairmont looks at a similar issue. The big appeal with a dual exhaust is the distinctive note and arguably the chance to get it breathing better. The downside is, if the car is largely original, you may end up hurting its value.
There’s not a lot of room under that car, so it will take an exhaust person with a bit of talent to nut it out.
Plus keep in mind that more noise doesn’t always equal more power. A well-designed single system can do the job. Whichever way you go, it pays to talk to an exhaust professional, who understands the role of proper design with the right back-pressure to keep the car running at its best.
Leyland lover
You might, like some of my friends, think I’m nuts. I have a real urge to go out and buy a P76 Super, in other words with the 4.4lt V8 in the nose. There’s something about them that really appeals to me – maybe it’s the whole backstory.
You see the odd good one comes up now and then. Is there anything special I should be looking out for, and what do you think of them generally?
Kim Standing
Mick says…
IF THE car passes basic checks, I’d jump on it. They were the most underestimated car of their era. Okay, they were as ugly as a drover’s dog, but had a lot of appeal. Mechanically they were fine. You can extract more power out of them and the engine is strong. The transmission is a BorgWarner that anyone can work on.
They didn’t suffer too badly with rust. Do all the usual checks (including getting it on a hoist) and, if it passes, buy it.
C3 for me
G’day Mick. I’ve got an urge to go out and treat myself to a C3 Corvette, though the range of what is out there is pretty daunting, with prices all over the place.
Rather than spend a fortune, I’d be happy with a basic 350 V8 with auto and I’m not too worried whether or not it’s a chrome-bumper version, so long as the price is right.
Your thoughts?
Warwick Bright
Mick says…
HERE IS my universal Corvette warning: Get it up in the air and check out the chassis very carefully. They can literally rust out and I’ve seen some bad examples. You can buy a new chassis, and upgraded versions, if you really want to tackle a project.
The issue is that the design allows them to collect salt and mud. Getting the fibreglass body right can be a bit of an art, and believe it or not there are boatbuilders out there who are clever in this area.
The driveline is very simple with loads of parts available.
They’re not a great handling car, but that Stingray shape is an absolute standout, so I can see the appeal. Good luck with it.