Every action has a reaction. Lately, we’ve been working on a Subaru and the job is one you could tackle at home. The biggest problem we have with parts, is the people we purchase them from simply don’t know. And it’s not their fault. They go by what the computer tells them, which could be wrong or right.
There are four different starter motors for this model – so it’s a minefield. The easiest way to start is, hopefully the motor still has the original numbers/codes sticker on the housing. You start with them.
Then we grab a couple of grand-dad tools, namely a couple of calipers. The new part will look visually close and can still be completely wrong, which is why we use a caliper.
I’m looking for the same-size turret, and the same-size mounting holes, with the same spacing. Of course, take the original in with you as well. A quick measurement in the shop will soon tell you whether we’re a go or no-go.
Modern cars always keep us on our toes. I jumped in a very late model Kia the other day and noticed a couple of service lights on. So we grabbed the scan tool and plugged it in. It says there is nothing wrong.
Now this car has its own scan tool built in, so I read the owner manual and start turning knobs and pushing buttons. I eventually get to the right spot and the car tells me it needs a new battery. Couldn’t you just spit that out in the first place? Geez …
Pet hate for the week: wheel locknuts. They’re not really required any more as people generally don’t swipe them like they used to. The real trouble starts when you get a combination of a locknut and some idiot with a rattle gun. There are types of locknuts using a Morse taper that require very little pressure: around 5Nm, or just a tweak. Once the taper is engaged it simply won’t let go.
A customer went somewhere to get the tyres rotated. When they said they couldn’t do it, she lobbed here. We have a variety of tools to tackle these things, but the wheels were on so tight she had to leave the car with us overnight.
It took about an hour for each wheel, making up special tools out of welded bolts and use a breaker bar to crack them undone. All because some clown used an air gun instead of the right tool.
The catch with wheel locknuts is they don’t just stop thieves, they also stop the owner from removing the wheels…
Crash ‘box
The art of driving a vehicle with a crash gearbox is something that is fast fading into the mists of time. But, what about if you build your own vehicle from parts that were just lying about, and you ended up with a five-speed Duplex main ’box coupled to another four-speed ’box mounted back to front?
What this means is that you would have to be able to perform some very deft footwork, and Kid Smoothy from Theodore QLD understood this and came up with this pedal arrangement.
Recycling at its best, need an accelerator? Grab an old door hinge – works a treat.
Need to heel and toe? No problems, just add another accelerator close to the brake pedal.
This set-up might not win any awards for beauty and design, but for practicality it is spot-on.
Note the twin sticks and position of the clutch pedal.
Vaughn Becker
Mick says…
I’ve seen older truck drivers with twin-stick Macks changing gears with one hand – it’s an art. When we used to do trucks years ago, very often the boss would ring to book one in complaining how the clutches didn’t last. I tried to show the drivers how they didn’t need a clutch to change gears.
If someone like me can do it, so should a professional truck driver. You’re just matching engine and gear speeds. The method is you pull it in to neutral for a moment, given the smallest blip on the throttle, then with the lightest pressure on the lever you’ll get the next gear.
I love the door hinge and it’s not the first time I’ve seen one pressed in to service on a truck or a car. You have to admit it works, and I like the second blipping throttle.
Slow shifter
Mick, my old XC Falcon six wagon is running pretty well, but the three-speed auto seems to take a bit of time to pick up drive, and a few extra seconds for reverse.
So I have a few questions. How often should I be servicing the auto?
I’m guessing it will need fresh fluid and the filter cleaned – is there any trick to adjusting it?
What should I be looking for in the way of signs of wear?
Thanks.
John Miller
Mick says…
That’s a BorgWarner you’re dealing with. When they start to fail, they lose reverse. It’s trying to tell you it’s ready to throw its legs in the air. Reverse should be instant and if it’s taking more than a few seconds, it’s on the way out.
I knew people who drove their Ford for years without reverse. A rebuild is a job for a specialist auto-trans builder. Get it done and it will be fine for another 30 years.
How often should you service it? That’s a bone of contention between people. I think every three years is about right. Drop the pain, new filter and fluid, adjust the bands. The latter task is beyond most home mechanics, but it’s not impossible.
You need a quarter-drive torque wrench and there’s a setting you need to follow. There are two adjustments – forward and reverse.
Great eight
Hi there. There’s a 1971 P6 Rover that has been offered to me and I’m sorely tempted. Have always had a soft spot for the way they look and how the cabin feels – very different to a modern car.
This one appears to have been an Australian-delivered car.
It seems to drive okay, but is there anything I should be looking for with the driveline, which is the V8 auto.
I’m assuming you’ll also tell me to check very carefully for rust!
Jamie Anderson
Mick says…
The pointy Rover is even more prone to rust than the P5! The driveline is really good. The Leyland V8 is based on a Buick, with Strombergs or SUs on it. I’d ditch them (maybe put them aside for the next owner) and put a Holley on it. It’s a simple conversion and they’re a happier vehicle as a result.
That’s exactly what I’ve done with my P5. If the one you’re looking at has been serviced it should be good. On the other hand, mine had sat unused under a tree for seven years, but I managed to get it going and drove it away.
Celica revival
Mick, I need some advice. I have taken on a pretty big challenge, which is to restore a 1975 Toyota Celica that I’ve purchased from a mate. He’s had it for years and has decided he no longer has the motivation to fix it up.
It’s a 1600 five-speed and has been sitting in his garage under the house, unused for probably the last 25 years.
These things are famous for rust and this one has a fair bit of work to be done on the sills, doors, and around the front and rear screens.
I can cope with the metal work, but not the paint. I’m guessing the best approach is to get the body done, then make sure it’s primed and ready to go for paint – I need to keep the bills down on this.
No doubt I’ll need patch panels and there seem to be a lot of suppliers out there – do you have any preferred supplier, or advice on how to pick one?
Also, the engine and transmission seem to be standard and would appear to have around 200,000km.
What’s your advice on how I approach recommissioning the driveline?
Thanks in advance.
Tony Simmons
Mick says…
I owned one and they’re great little cars – the 1.6lt that’s super strong. I’m a little ambivalent about patch panels. They work, but getting the shape correct can take a lot of time and effort. I’d be looking for a good quality ‘tin man’ and just pay the money to get the panels made tight the first time. The car is worth the expense.
As for getting the engine going again, sitting around isn’t great for them but it’s not necessarily the end. Very often the main challenge you face is a few oil leaks because the seals have dried out. I’d try to get it going and assess it from there.
Pull out the spark plugs, put a 50/50 mixture of diesel fuel and engine oil down the hole and let it sit for four of five days. Then put some rags over the top of the spark-plug holes and see if it turns over by hand. Then crank it to get the liquid out – that’s what the rags are for. That will free up your rings. Check you have spark when you turn it over.
If it’s all good, put some fresh oil in it and some plugs, and start it up. Don’t rev it – if it starts and runs, just let it sit and idle. Generally, don’t fix it if it isn’t broken.
As for the transmission, fresh oil should be enough to keep it happy. They’re incredibly tough and have been put behind much bigger engines.
Gemini days
My Mum has had a Holden Gemini that she’s passed on to me. I’m stoked as it’s a TX coupe and it’s a manual. It’s got the 1600 motor. It’s actually running pretty well as she’s looked after it, even though it’s just been a Sunday car for years and years.
The only concern is the handling and steering feel a little ‘loose’ and I’m thinking it may be due for a freshen-up in the steering and suspension.
What’s involved in this, and what should I be asking for when I go to a workshop?
Tanya Cleary
Mick says…
IF THE car has been kept running, that’s a great start and if it feels loose in the steering, all the rubber bushes will be gone by now. The best thing is to take it a decent workshop and go over it. The rubbers perish and a birthday will do it wonders.