In each edition of Unique Cars Magazine our resident mechanic Mick McCrudden finds answers to reader questions.
If you have a question you’d like to read about, email uniquecars@primecreative.com.au or send us a letter the old fashioned way to Unique Cars, 379 Docklands Drive, Docklands, VIC 3008
Belt up
Hi Mick. Can you please explain the laws regarding retrofitting seat belts in cars pre-1964?
My understanding is that cars that were not equipped with seat belts from the factory are not required to legally run any seat belts in the state of Victoria?
I have had friends state that seat belts with a non-red button release are technically illegal even if they are original to the car, but the car is legal with no seat belts – how is that possible?
I would love your insight in to seat belt installation in classics across the various states.
Andrew Litera
Mick says:
WOW! THAT’s a big topic. The key dates for compulsory use of seat
belts were:
- 1 January 1969 front seats – national;
- 1 January 1971 all seats – national;
- 1 January 1975, retractable belts – national;
- 1 January 1964 – Victoria.
Earlier cars are in fact legal without belts.
Requirements for historic vehicles can vary a little from state to state, however, there are two guiding principles.
First, any existing belt needs to meet the ADR for that period. Keep in mind there are people out there who can restore older style belts.
Second, any retro fitment needs to be approved by an appropriate engineer and meet current ADRs.
You can look up the current ADRs online, which are numbers 04 and 05.
My advice is, if you’re retro-fitting, get advice from a seat-belt specialist such as Hemco. You’ll find at least one in every major city and several folk out there are restoring seat-belt sets.
I like the idea of retrofitting modern belts, simply for the safety angle. However, something I don’t like is where you see someone put an upper anchor bolt through the B-pillar, which risks weakening the structure. I prefer to weld in a trapped nut on the inside, even though it involves more work (and some paint repair) to get it right.
Heavy breathing
G’day Mick. I’m building a V8 VH Commodore SS and am sticking in a 5.0lt V8, with perhaps a warmer cam. I’m getting the motor balanced and wondering what your suggestion might be for a carburetor – do I stick with the Quadrajet or go for something like a Holley?
Plus, do you have any preferences on intake manifolds? I’m tempted to keep the car looking reasonably stock.
Amy Roberts
Mick says:
I would probably put the Quadrajet aside as something that can be handed over with the car should a new owner want it. Parts for Quadrajets are getting hard to source and don’t be tempted by what you see in online auctions – god knows where they’ve come from and what’s in them. I’ve had a couple come in and they’ve been a horror story.
Judging by what you’re saying, I’d suggest a 570 or 600 Holley would do the trick. The reason I say Holley is they’re just so mechanical and easy to tune – they’re just jets and holes. What type you use will depend on whether you’re running an auto or manual: auto you go vac secondary, manual go double-pumper. Similarly, the transmission will influence what cam you need – talk to Crow Cams and they can give you some specs to work with.
As for the intake manifold, a lot depends on what you want to see under the bonnet. The original Holden dual-plane spread bore manifold is brilliant, so long as you can find one without corrosion.
Benz lights
Mick, I have a 1995 C240 Mercedes-Benz (W202) and recently had a high-beam lamp go. I can’t remember when the bulbs were last changed, so I’m thinking of going around the car and putting in fresh units.
Is this a time to upgrade to something else, such as LED, or do I leave well alone? It looks like the standard lamps are H1.
Am also looking at doing an engine oil change – what do you recommend?
Michael Rossi
Mick says:
Fresh bulbs isn’t a bad idea, so long as you use reasonable quality units. Getting to some of them will be fiddly, so be patient. And yes, I would stick with standard-spec globes. If you start putting more modern bulbs in, you may well find the chrome on the inside of the reflector doesn’t handle the additional heat and you’ll end up with a bigger problem. Toss a spare or two in the car.
A standard globe replacement might cost $20-30 a pop and your mechanic might charge another $10-20 to put it in. Go for aftermarket conversions and you can easily find those costs multiplying very quickly. Really, the standard lamps work pretty well and I’d leave well enough alone.
As for oil, the easy solution is to go to the Penrite online selector and go with what they suggest. Your car is from an era when synthetic oils were preferred. In this case 0W40 Ten Tenths is recommended, or HPR 5 5W40 if the car has a few miles on it.
Quicker Esky
Hi Mick. I have a 1974 Ford Escort Mk1. It’s a 1300 XL with four-speed manual and I’m in the process of doing it up. A big priority is doing something to liven up the engine – any thoughts? Also, will I need to go over the transmission and diff?
We’re tackling some rust repairs on it at the moment, so the driveline is next. Thanks.
Dave Edgecombe
Mick says:
An early Escort is a fantastic basis for a project. They’re great fun to drive and there is literally a world of gear out there for them, particularly from the UK. In fact, I have a project Escort of my own that I’m eyeing off.
The easy upgrade is to put the 1600 Kent motor in place of the 1300. Keep in mind the 1600 was the basis for Formula Ford. There are lots of tuning gear out there and I’d look at mounting twin Webers – the manifold is readily found and a good option for the home mechanic.
If you’re a little more advanced with your skills you could do what I plan for mine, which is a four-throttle-body fuel injection.
As for the transmission and diff, by all means go through them if they have clocked up a lot of miles.
Alfa Junior
Mick, I’ve put my hand up to take over an old Alfa Romeo Junior GT, a 1973 model, that has been sitting a long time.
I know they’re a trap for rust and that will be one of the first things I tackle.
What should I be looking for under the bonnet?
Damien Ventnor
Mick says:
These are a wonderful car to drive when they’re in good shape. As you suggest, they come with factory rust, but time and patience should sort that out.
With the twin-cam engine, the real risk is it has been left sitting with old coolant and for how long?
What happens over time is it can turn against the car and literally eat at the alloy from the inside out. I would be a little reluctant to just try starting it, if it’s been sitting for a very long time.
Instead, I’d be inclined to pop the top off and go through it carefully.
Soarer Advice
Hi. I own a third-generation Soarer – the one with the Lexus V8 – and am pretty happy with it. Some advice, please.
First what sort of engine oil should I be running in it? Does it matter that much?
Also, like a lot of two-door coupes, it has huge door seals. In my case they’re holding up okay but look like they will eventually need changing. Any thoughts on that – is it a big job?
Dale Cordova
Mick says:
That engine requires the correct oil and I would stick with the manufacturer’s recommendation. I
f you don’t have an owner’s manual, go to Penrite online as it has a good selector and suggests a 15W60 full synthetic for that V8, aka HPR15. Looked after properly, that engine will last forever. Even as they get older, you need to stick with the proper oil.
In general, this is something you can tackle at home. There are suppliers out there for a big range of seals, like the one in Melbourne called Scott’s Old Auto Rubber.
A little bit of silicone spray or a wipe of Vaseline will make the job a little easier – you just need a bit of patience to do it well.