Mick is toiling away in the workshop and providing you with the car advice you need.
We’ve been trying to put a smile on the owner’s face and think we’ve succeeded by fitting a nice shiny new radiator. If you’ve come in late, we’re building a VK Berlina wagon for Guido, with a 355 stroker V8, four-speed TH700 auto and a bunch of other upgrades.
We’re not looking for big power, as it’s going to be used as a holiday cruiser. The latest effort was fitting a new custom-built radiator from Norm at Aussie Desert Coolers, running a pair of electric fans. It incorporates a transmission cooler, which Norm prefers not to do, but in this case we’re working with some pretty severe space restrictions.
We can now get on with the plumbing, which is one of those things that takes time. I’m keen to ensure that the car is easy to work on, which means putting in some extra effort at this stage. For example, just making up and installing a couple of transmission cooler line brackets took a couple of hours.
We’ve gone with an electric fuel pump because fitting a manual unit was going to be more trouble than it was worth, particularly given the space restraints. The trick was to find somewhere where it won’t cop stones and mud, but lower than the level of the fuel tank so it remained wet. A dried-out pump can cause issues later on. Our next job is sorting out how we install the air-conditioning.
Then we’ll work on putting the
battery in the back, just to keep the engine bay as uncluttered as possible.
FORD REVIVAL
Meanwhile, we’ve been having fun with the old sixties Ford ute we introduced last issue. It’s a lovely car that deserves to be back on the road. Of course you get lots of little challenges with a vehicle this age, such as the rusted-out heater box that looks like it’s hosted a few generations of wildlife over time!
Then there is the detail of the indicator stalk, the mounting plate for which had been drilled and tapped so it was no longer useable. Fortunately we’ve found a reasonable replacement.
It’s all part of the adventure of getting an old car back up to speed …
BEARING BOTHER
I reckon wheel bearings are one of those things we probably don’t pay much (or any!) attention to and probably should.
So how do you go about diagnosing a dud bearing?
Jim Stanton
In part it comes down to whether we’re talking older-style wheel bearings or modern ones. Your older-style Timken race bearing, which is a conical bearing in a race will, like all bearings, get a bit of play in it. And like all bearings it will be noisy when it’s worn out.
You’ll get pitting in the race, and a lot of people are too lazy to change the race and just throw a new bearing in – which is easy. But to knock out the old race and put in a new one takes more effort. The lazy way will make it nice and quiet for about 90 days, then all the problems come back.
You can hear the noise when you’re driving. A noisy old tyre and bearing can sound very similar. The way to check is to get the car up to the speed where the noise occurs and slip it into neutral. If the noise stays there, it’s the bearing, if the noise goes away, it’s the tyre. The same is true for the rear drive. If the noise goes away it’s the diff, if it remains it’s the bearing.
A modern bearing is a double-row solid unit. They’re prepacked and don’t get play – they just get noisy. You replace them.
A older-style bearing will generally last 15 to 20 years. You take them out every five years, clean them, repack them and put them back in and set your preload.
The modern bearings last about 10 years and tend to be more expensive.
FEEDING THE HQ
My partner and I have been slowly doing up an old HQ wagon that’s been in the family forever and we’re getting close to the finish.
We’ve rebuilt the standard 202 engine (with Trimatic) with a mild cam but largely standard with a few minor upgrades.
Our question is, what sort of carburation would you go for? There seems to be a huge choice out there, including aftermarket injection. What would you go for?
Marianne Jensen
I WOULD go for a two-barrel carby – nice and simple. You’d look for a two-barrel manifold and two-barrel Stromberg or Carter carburettor off the old 186S. I’ve done it many times, though the components are getting harder to find. You could also put a 350 Holley on it, which will do the same thing. That will give it that little bit of extra go without being too thirsty.
The 202 Trimatic is a great combination – you can’t go wrong.
WHICH OIL?
My old XA Ford running the original 302 with auto is getting on a bit and so far as I know, has never been apart. I’d like to keep it that way for the time being as it still performs okay.
My question is, should I be running a heavier oil in an older worn engine like this that’s getting through some oil? If so, what do you recommend?
John Thompson
With a worn engine like that, you’d go up to an HPR Penrite, such as HPR40 and maybe even up to HPR50. Lots of old engines like oils such as HPR50 – old Jaguars are a great example. If you put a thinner oil in them, they don’t like it.
It’s a mineral oil and won’t stop the consumption but will slow it down substantially. Just make sure you give it a little extra warm-up time, particularly in winter. Don’t go putting in additives!
HAPPY DAYS TAKE 2
In response to ‘Happy Days’ in Issue 489, I just wanted to add that there are old cars that had a gear selection diagram shown on the dash at least, not sure about on the gear knob.
Case in point was the circa 1954 Commer Utility that had a little diagram in the line-up of gauges on the dash. On the sedans this space would have been for a gauge so they missed out on this diagram.
We have both the ute and sedan, so I can confirm this.
Interestingly (or not), the pattern for these Commer utes and the Hillman sedans was forward and up for first gear with second below, back and up for third and down for fourth. Reverse is all the way forward past a resisting spring, then down.
Coincidentally this is the same pattern as the Humber Super Snipes (circa 1948), my parents own a beautiful white one of these.
One of my regular-use club cars is a 1962 Hillman Super Minx that also has a four-speed column shift, and to confuse matters it has the vertical shift gates reversed so first to second is toward the driver with third to fourth away from the driver.
I’ve been known to start in the wrong gear or grind a gear forgetting which old Pommy car I’m in, certainly keeps us on our toes!
And just to throw another weird one at you, my Dad Phil and I have been working on getting an old 1932 Commer Raider light truck ready for a run in the Bay to Birdwood later this year.
It has a floor shifter with the first to second shift close to the driver and third to fourth away to the left!
Going for third and grinding first instead on our maiden drive had the old man’s face screwed up like a prune! It is so low geared that starting in third felt like a normal first gear.
Hayden Muir
Obviously if you know the vehicle, you’re not going to need the gear pattern. However, it’s a reasonable thing to have there for anyone unfamiliar with it. One thing I have heard of is people in Victoria being booked by police for not having a gear pattern on the car and being told it’s a roadworthy item. It isn’t. If you get a ticket along those lines, dispute it.
TIRED WAGON
I’ve owned an HQ Holden wagon with a 202 red motor for nearly 20 years and it’s getting pretty tired.
Overall the car seems sound, not much in the way of rust, and it’s a bit of a family favourite. So we’ve decided it stays but needs a freshen-up.
The big question is, since we’ll be spending money on it, do we stick with the 202 or go all-out with a V8?
Anne Smith
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 202. They were a brilliant engine and made for a good family car – they would tow a caravan and were economical.
If you have your heart set on a V8, a 253 in an HQ is a fabulous package.
Keep in mind though that the swap will involve a lot more than just the motor – engine mounts, cooling, transmission, exhaust system – so it’s a much bigger number.
If you came here, I’d probably try to talk you out of a V8 and instead advise rebuilding the six. You’ll get a good lift in power with a two-barrel on it, a bit of a cam, a small lift in compression and it will go much better.