In each edition of Unique Cars Magazine resident mechanic Mick McCrudden answers the questions readers have about their car challenges.
Cortina Six
Hi Mick. I’m in the market for a six-cylinder Cortina – preferably the TC ‘Coke bottle’ shape with the 250 Falcon six. I like the look of them and the idea of having the big six.
I’m guessing they need to be checked carefully for rust. What else should I be looking for? Are there any dramas with the electrics, engine or transmission (auto) that I should be looking for?
Everything I read says they tend to be nose-heavy and are prone to chronic understeer. Surely this can fixed?
Any advice welcome.
Ned Anderson
Mick says:
They’re a beautiful combination in that spec. They were prone to rust. The metal in them wasn’t the thickest. That keeps the weight down but affects longevity.
The electrics on them are pretty good. That 250 Falcon motor is just bulletproof. If you’re going to rebuild it, there are a couple of little tricks you can use to liven it up a little: nice compression, nice camshaft, nothing stupid. Put a fresh carburettor in and it will come alive. The auto in them is a BorgWarner 35 and again is trouble-free.
As for the handling, there is a company in Sydney called RRS which makes all the components to make them and other early Fords handle better. You can buy coil-overs with adjustable compression and rebound that can reduce the nose-heavy feel. Also, modern tyres help a little.
Polish-free EJ
Mick’s advice to Baz Preston about keeping the car dust-free was the key. My EJ I purchased from my Aunty in 1968 when I was aged 22, after serving my two years of national service in the Army.
The EJ was the first Holden with enamel duco that didn’t require polishing for three years, according to the sales brochure. All I did every week, religiously, I used a top-quality chamois with a bucket of plain water (no detergents).
My EJ, which I still own, has never needed a polish.
Four years ago I was awarded the letter of the month in UC when I mentioned I’d been married to the same wife and car for 50 years!
The late Russell Burns’ story on his Austin A40 (Reader Rides, issue 509) was fascinating reading and a bit similar to mine.
Keep up the good work.
Gary Shaw
Mick says:
That cleaning ritual sounds perfect. Have you noticed that a good quality chamois is now hard to find? The materials have changed over time and, if you find an old-style organic one in the shed hang on to it!
MGA advice
Mick, after driving a mate’s example I’ve sort of fallen in love with the idea of owning an MGA. I’m guessing the usual warnings about dodgy bodywork and rust apply – it is after all a very old car.
I guess my main concern is whether you can make them reliable on the mechanical side of things. My mate
swears by having a Celica five-speed transmission, like the one in his. I liked it, but don’t have basis for comparison – do you reckon that’s worth having?
The prices seem to vary wildly depending on whether they’re a concours example or a solid driver. I’m leaning towards the second option, which is a lot less expensive – think half. What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks.
Andrew Dempsey
Mick says:
They are a beautiful car.
It will have rust unless someone has gone to a lot of trouble to deal with it.
The good news is you can remove the body from the chassis to work on it. Most people who restore a car take progress photos along the way, so if the seller claims they’ve restored it, ask to see them.
When it comes to mechanicals, they are simple, there is great parts supply and they’re relatively easy to bring up to 1800cc for that bit of extra go.
And yes, they can be very reliable so long as they’re bolted together properly. F
or example you can now buy proper O-ring type rear main seals, instead of the original slinger rope that always leaked.
That Celica transmission conversion is popular and if you find one, go for it. The extra makes a huge difference.
What’s my number?
About four years ago, I found myself in possession of a rusted out, mid 1980s, Toyota Coaster bus. A project at best, it was immediately put up for sale.
After some weeks without so much of a tyre-kicker, an old fella offered to swap me for a 1947 Vauxhall Caleche convertible. I couldn’t say “Yes” quick enough!
The day it was delivered, a Welsh plug fell out of the motor, so we named her “Lucille” (Loose Seal).
What a motor! Over the years, someone had upgraded the rear suspension and dropped in an HB Brabham Torana four-cylinder engine with a four-speed gearbox (80hp in a car designed for 10hp) and in 1982 the car was street-registered with this running gear!
The old fella had done the floor pans, tyres, bumpers, but that’s as far as he got due to failing eyesight. Now after spending a couple of years doing the interior, brakes, getting the paint all one colour, the electrical and tuning the twin Strombergs and many many laps of the property, we’re ready for the ol’ club rego.
And here is my dilemma.
The old fella stored the car in a rail yard. It was actually sitting on train tracks the day we viewed it. And one reason he decided to part with it was because parts were getting stolen off it. The tail-lights, all the badges, the compliance plate and even the paperwork out of the dash! This is where my final hurdle begins.
I have no idea how to find the VIN. The faded 1982 rego sticker showed the old rego number but the VIN is too faded to read. A search of the rego number shows that the number has now been reassigned to a truck.
I was told about a friendly fella at the local RTA who might be helpful. He was neither friendly nor helpful!
And that’s where I am at. Please help!
On a side note, the old fella had the Coaster bus completely bogged, resprayed and fitted out in a month and last we heard, he was living the dream up near Lightning Ridge somewhere.
Love your mag.
Dave Human
Mick says:
We have been in touch with Dave and suggested he try to resurrect the chassis number, on the lower front left frame rail.
The method I use is gently clean it up with fine sandpaper, paint over it with same white paint and then wipe it away. Usually that will leave the stamped numbers visible. However, Dave was already on to that trick and it didn’t work.
He also tried the local Vauxhall club, with no success.
My next suggestion is try the NSW state archives, which keeps old registration information. I have done this successfully in the past and was charged a pretty modest fee ($35, I think) to do a search. You can find it online at mhnsw.au
Fancy Fiat
Hi Mick. A very long time ago I had an Uncle who owned a Fiat 130 coupe, a really beautiful car and I remember riding around in it as a kid. Unfortunately the car got sold when he got too old to drive and we never saw it again.
I’ve since managed to put aside some money to go out and find another. People give very different responses when I mention this. Some say I should absolutely steer clear of an old Fiat like this, while others tell me it’s a great idea.
I’m keen to do this soon as I can see the prices are starting to climb. What are you thoughts – is it a bad idea?
Mary Cinelli
Mick says:
The 130 is a spectacular-looking thing and very 1970s.
I reckon with situations like this, remember it is just a car and you don’t need to be scared of it. As you get into the really exotic end of the market, such as Ferrari and Lamborghini, your costs go up enormously. That should be less of an issue with the Fiat.
As you probably know, rust is an issue. The V6 engine was designed by Ferrari engineer Aurelio Lampredi, but is not a Ferrari engine and it was widely used.
You’re only looking for oil leaks. They’re reasonably reliable and parts availability is okay. It might be the little things that trip you up, such as trim.
I would buy the best car you can afford and have it checked out by a mechanic before handing over the money.
Good luck with it.
Turbo or no?
Hi Mick. I’m the happy owner of a Nissan 300ZX, that is the Z31 – the long-nose car that looks like a beefed-up 240Z.
It’s been a pretty good thing and I’m debating with myself whether I should hang on to it.
One reason is I also want to get the next model along, the Z32 300ZX. For me, the big question is whether I look for a locally-sold normally-aspirated car, or go for a twin-turbo import. What say you?
Thanks.
Dave Inglewood
Mick says:
I like the Z31 and reckon they are a bit undervalued. It’s a good-looking car and probably worth hanging on to, particularly if you have it on club plates. They have a good solid engine and you can do stuff to it to freshen it up that wasn’t around 20 years ago.
With the Z32, I would lean towards a local-imported normally-aspirated car. It has decent performance and will be a lot easier and cheaper to run. Plus it’s also more likely to hold its resale value.